Why Hair Oil is NOT a Moisturizer

Understanding Loc Care and the Science of Moisture

If you’re a black woman you have almost certainly have had your scalp greased and was taught that greasing or oiling the scalp was necessary and advantageous for healthy hair growth.

Big shout out to our ancestors because scalp greasing goes back ages. In Africa products like palm oil were used. After the slave trade in America with limited resources, slaves would slather their hair with all kinds of ingredients from bacon grease to butter!

However, one of the most persistent myths in the world of black natural hair care is that hair oil serves as a moisturizer. In addition, it is widely believed that the scalp and hair need excessive oiling. While oils are invaluable in any loc regimen, they do not, by themselves, moisturize your hair. In addition, over oiling our scalp can yield results opposite of our initial intention. In this post, we’ll unravel the science behind moisture, the unique needs of afro hair and afro-haired locs, and how to create a routine that keeps your locs supple, strong, and flourishing.

What Does It Mean to Moisturize Hair?

Moisturizing is the process of adding and retaining water in the hair strands. Water is, by definition, the ultimate moisturizer. Without it, hair—especially kinky, coily, or tightly curled textures like those common in black hair—can become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.

Many people conflate the use of oils with moisturizing, but oils serve a different primary function. They  seal in existing moisture, but they cannot add moisture where there is none.

In fact oiling dry hair can actually promote extreme dryness by blocking water from penetrating strands, essentially sealing in dryness!

The Structure of Black Hair and Locs

The structure of black hair makes it especially prone to dryness. Each curl, coil, or kink in the hair shaft creates a bend, making it more difficult for the scalp’s natural oils (sebum) to travel down the length of the hair. This is why, even in loose natural hair, dryness is a common challenge.

Locs, by their very nature, can exacerbate this challenge. Once the hair is formed and maintained into locs, the compacted structure makes it even harder for oils and water from the scalp to move along the hair shaft. This means that intentional moisture practices are crucial for maintaining healthy locs.

What Do Hair Oils Actually Do?

Hair oils are lipids—fats derived from plants, seeds, or synthetic sources. Popular oils used in black hair care include coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, and argan oil. Their benefits include:

·        Sealing in moisture: Oils form a protective barrier around the hair shaft, locking in water and slowing evaporation.

·        Adding shine: Oils smooth the cuticle, helping hair reflect more light.

·        Minimizing friction: This can reduce breakage caused by manipulation or environmental factors.

·        Protecting from environmental stressors: Some oils have antioxidant and UV-blocking properties.

However, oils do not contain water. If your locs are already dry, applying oil without first introducing water or a water-based product will only coat the hair, potentially making it greasy and difficult to cleanse—but not hydrated.

Why Water Is Essential for Locs

Water molecules penetrate the hair shaft, swelling and softening the internal structure. This makes hair feel softer, more pliable, and less prone to snapping. For black hair—especially in locs—the challenge is not only getting moisture into the hair, but keeping it there.

A simple test: If your locs feel dry, brittle, or rough, or if they lack elasticity, it’s time for real moisture—not just oil.

How to Properly Moisturize Locs

Moisturizing locs is best achieved by introducing water or water-based products into your routine. Here are effective methods:

·        Water Spritzes: Fill a spray bottle with distilled water and lightly mist your locs daily or as needed. You can add a few drops of essential oil for fragrance, but the base should always be water.

·        Water-Based Leave-In Conditioners: Look for products where water (aqua) is the first ingredient. These often contain humectants like glycerin or aloe vera that attract and hold moisture in your hair.

·        Steaming: Using a hair steamer helps open the cuticle, allowing water to penetrate more deeply into the locs.

·        Products like Heritage Store’s Rosewater & Glycerin or Aloe Water are great options to add moisture to your locs

After the hair is hydrated, use oil to seal in the moisture and prevent rapid evaporation, especially in dry climates.

Common Myths and Mistakes

Many people with locs mistakenly reach for oils when their hair feels dry. This is understandable—oils can create the illusion of softness and shine. However, this is a surface-level effect. Over time, relying on oil without proper moisture can lead to locs that are increasingly dehydrated on the inside.

Another common mistake is that people think overuse of oils and grease on the scalp will promote hair growth. However, the opposite is true. Too much oil can clog the pores making it difficult for nutrients to absorb and for the follicles to breathe. As mentioned above, our scalps create natural oils called sebum. Caking too much oil on the scalp in addition to your scalp’s natural oils can lead to stagnated hair growth.

The key to this is balance. Oil your scalp right after a wash or when your scalp feels tight and dry. It is not necessary to oil your scalp every day. The environment, season and your lifestyle will determine how often you actually have to oil your scalp.

Another common mistake is avoiding water altogether out of fear of frizz or unraveling, particularly for those with starter locs. While over manipulation of wet locs can cause problems, regular, gentle misting is essential for hydration at all stages of the loc journey.

The Dangers of Oil Buildup

Applying oil to dry locs not only fails to moisturize, but can also lead to buildup. Because locs are dense and tightly packed, products—especially oils and butters—can become trapped inside. This can cause dullness, attract lint, and even lead to unpleasant odors or scalp issues.

To avoid this, always apply oil sparingly and only after hydrating with water or a water-based product. Make clarifying washes part of your regular routine to remove any excess product.

Building a Healthy Moisture Routine for Locs

Here’s how to create a robust, moisturizing routine for locs:

·        Hydrate regularly: Spritz locs with water or a water-based leave-in at least several times a week.

·        Seal moisture: After hydrating, apply a lightweight oil to lock in the water. Focus on the ends, which are oldest and most prone to dryness.

·        Clarify: Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse locs and scalp, removing buildup and allowing moisture to penetrate.

·        Protect at night: Cover locs with a satin or silk scarf or bonnet to prevent moisture loss and reduce friction.

·        Listen to your hair: If your locs feel dry or stiff, increase hydration. If they feel greasy or heavy, cut back on oils and clarify more often.

Embracing the Science for Beautiful, Healthy Locs

Understanding the difference between moisturizing and sealing is crucial for every person with afro-haired locs. Oils have their place—but only after water has been introduced. Water is the foundation; oil is the shield. By prioritizing true moisture and using oils wisely, you’ll nurture locs that are soft, strong, and radiant. Let go of myths, embrace science, and celebrate the unique beauty of your locs in every stage of their journey.

Remember: When in doubt, reach for water first. Your locs—and your future self—will thank you.